The Building Inspector is the quality control inspector between the contractors and you. Building Inspectors need to work with the builders to ensure all aspects of the home construction meet the Australians standards.
Note: Please be sure that the builder and all tradesman have finished their work before booking a Hand Over Inspection with us. We don´t want to waste your money and our time!
New Building Inspection
We are certified to carry out building inspections, but we also specialize in building energy efficiency, mould and all home dampness issues. Building a new home or buying an established home is maybe the biggest investment you'll ever make. How can you be sure there aren't potentially serious defects that could make your investment a costly one in the future? A lot of people think that inspections of new houses are not required because they are covered by a warranty and they are new. The fact is, many newly built houses can have more defects than older ones! If problems are identified early on, you can have them rectified before you move in, rather than having tradesmen requiring access on several occasions when you are busy at work. Having your new home professionally inspected by our company as early as possible in the buying or building process can save you thousands of dollars on items which you may be able to have the seller or builder correct.
Our report also provides important information for a new home owner. The main advantages of final new home building inspections are:
- Provide assistance to negotiate with the builder
- Ensure appropriate action is taken before warranty period expires
- Non-compliance with the Building Code Of Australia
Our company will give you the information you require to make an informed decision before you sign. With our Building Inspection, you'll receive a detailed, comprehensive report that explains the condition of the home's structural elements, major systems and components. Our friendly, knowledgeable and experienced Building Inspectors will answer any questions you may have about your new home, during the inspection process or anytime afterwards, so you can make your purchasing decision with confidence.
Many problems with builders fall into two general categories.
Minor new home defects which are easy to fix and just need to be scheduled. These include things like missing extras you asked for, chips and marks on the walls, miss-wired lights, windows that do not open properly etc.
Major home defects can be much more problematic for you and the builder. This is where knowing the builders construction reputation and service reputation is really important. Items such as foundation cracks, incorrect installation of your brick, poor concrete mix, cracked windows, poorly installed kitchen or bathroom installations. These are basically items that will cost a lot of money to repair, were the builder will be reluctant or even unable to help you. Smaller builders with insufficient cash flow may not be able to meet their warranty obligations, while other builders just do not deal with builder problems well.
Did you know?
- Sealing of door edges: Door leaves are defective if they do not have all sides, top and bottom edges that are sealed to prevent moisture entering.
- Levelness of timber and concrete floors Except where documented otherwise, new floors are defective if within the first 24 month they differ in level by more than 10 mm in any room or area, or more than 4 mm in any 2 m length.
- Cracking in Cornices: Cracking of cornice joints such as butt joints and mitres, and at junctions with walls and ceilings is a defect if it`s greater than 1 mm and can be seen from a normal viewing position!
- Perpend joints: The maximum deviation from a specified thickness of a perpend joints for non-structural face brickwork is +/- 5mm on average' as well as that 'the maximum difference in perpend thickness in any non-structural face brick wall is 8mm' and also that 'the minimum perpend thickness for non-structural face brick wall is 5mm'.
- Damp Proof: The height of a damp-proof course, or flashing serving as a damp-proof course, must be not less than 150 mm above the adjacent ground level; or 75mm above the finished surface level of adjacent paved, concreted or landscaped areas that slope away from the wall'